11.10.2009

港人勿進?


這裡,擺著鮮為人知的日本酒陣。

認識了一位略懂廣東話的居酒屋老闆,有興趣知日本人收工後的喝酒私竇,一輪雞同鴨講下得知這間樓上舖的存在,在飲食網站找資料,然而開在銅鑼灣的日本料理食評量竟然是無,真神奇!



衣架、懷舊古畫,有著70年代日劇的早古味道。

同食友在渣甸街由細號門牌走到大號碼,花了些時間,總算找到隱於商業大廈的夜店,甫出電梯,迎面來了兩位帶醉而去的日本人;不懂日語,而英語又行不通的小店,只能憑感覺來體會帶著早古味的西日酒吧。



嗯,此情此景,我已將自己代入劇中情節。

坐在棕木色的皮椅子,面對著一系列燒酌,及感覺很老很傳統的日本酒,店員搖著酒杯,在柔和燈光下與客人閒話家常,異鄉人需要酒,更需要一處讓他們拾回家鄉感到空間。



將自己代入這日劇情節,在餐牌上兩頁由日本人寫的漢字譯本中挑了三款小吃,分別要了自家薯餅、麻油煙肉蒸椰菜及炸魷魚乾,只要茶沒叫酒,須知「運吉」得要緊,歐巴桑卻沒視以白眼,還跟食友談起「廚話」,民化雖異,但大家對吃還是認真的。




自家薯餅,面層灑上薄薄一層麵包糠,炸得酥化不油,薯蓉混入肉粒,粗糙粉黏並帶日本男爵薯的獨特薯甜,日本人做的炸薯餅,真的不會差到那裡。




麻油煙肉蒸椰菜,似是平凡,但薑汁加上薄薄麻油香撈在椰菜上,椰菜爽嫩,還有煙肉添予油甘,家常得來又清爽夠味的煮野菜。



中華冷麵,以玻璃碗盛著,配料切得細緻,很美。吃中華冷麵考的是調汁功夫,這裡汁酸、辣、甜調得不錯,既有醋酸亦有山椒粉及芥末引起的辛,麻醬汁甜豉油產生的甜令平凡的幼身蛋麵變得好吃,惜這裡的麵太幼亦煮得過腍,要花上很大力氣才能撥鬆,如配的是西山拉麵,效果會更好。

幾味家常送酒小料理做得不錯,但較之更有趣的,是真實卻如夢幻的廠景氣氛,看看錶,是時候埋單回歸現實了。

後話,在上載網誌後,收到一為匿名人留言:「The owner and staff as well as other Japanese customers, have openly said to me they didn't want too many HK customers (but a few is ok) to come here and spoil the atmosphere:」,令我想起精武門的劇情,今天還有香港人禁入的日本地方?餐廳打開門,如不歡迎客人的話店方是有權限「送客的」,但我既來到,就會寫我所吃、所感、所經歷的事與大家分享,這段對話我亦會原文實錄。

註:這話出自匿名人的之筆,未必代表店方官方立場。


是次消費:約$150/位

(以五個為滿分)
食物: 1/2
配套: 1/2 
消費: 1/2

Bogey 
地址:香港島 銅鑼灣渣甸街54號富盛商業大廈3D
電話:2504-1511







8 comments:

v said...

hmmm, good place to drink

Anonymous said...

Unfortunately - I actually am a regular patron here after work and I believed most customers mutually and deliberately keep it as low profile as possible and not put it on OR - that's despite it having opened for 4+ years!

The owner and staff as well as other Japanese customers, have openly said to me they didn't want too many HK customers (but a few is ok) to come here and spoil the atmosphere:

It should be kept as a secret hmmmmmm..... Seriously! :) There are similar 'low profile' places existing in Hong Kong esp. in CWB, trying to cater for only certain types of customers or those finishing golf.

The nature of the shop will change completely after this review. I better finish up my saved-up bottle of Shochu. The food here is worth more than 4 anyway, depending on what one orders :(

Anonymous said...

Unfortunately - I actually am a regular patron here after work and I believed most customers mutually and deliberately keep it as low profile as possible and not put it on OR - that's despite it having opened for 4+ years!

The owner and staff as well as other Japanese customers, have openly said to me they didn't want too many HK customers (but a few is ok) to come here and spoil the atmosphere:

It should be kept as a secret hmmmmmm..... Seriously! :) There are similar 'low profile' places existing in Hong Kong esp. in CWB, trying to cater for only certain types of customers or those finishing golf.

The nature of the shop will change completely after this review. I better finish up my saved-up bottle of Shochu. The food here is worth more than 4 anyway, depending on what one orders :(

Anonymous said...

I shall add - Its upto you to decide or not whether to keep this on your website! There are many places in the world which are kept sacred and secret for a reason... this is not the 1st one I've encountered.

If you wanna know what the owners/staff have said to me about 'filtering' out HK customers, I can talk to you offline :)

以撒 said...

你是誰,
打開門做生意,如不歡迎客人前來的話,店方是有權即時「送客」的,但坐得入店,就算店方拒絕,我亦會將所吃過及感受過的經歷寫出。

待會,我就會將這篇食誌放在更公開的飲食網站。

Anonymous said...

No offence at all. However, please ask yourself why do you think, it has been operating for nearly 5 years in Hong Kong quietly without anyone attempting to write an article on it on say openrice or wom and then claim its coveted 1st review status?

Its been low profile for a reason and its because it needs to filter out its customer base and grow organically. All customers respect the shop and understand the philosophy behind its existence, it also says Members Only on the front.

If you did not know, this shop is owned and operated by a 媽媽生 who caters for customers on a very personal basis. Its similar to a retired and more mature, 2nd stage hostess club without the young girls. Customers and 媽媽生 form really close bonds and call each another by name.

Some dishes such as 西村 Sandwich and other items, are named after their long time Customers. The shop name was deliberately so because it caters for Japanese golfing customers after their games in privacy. Other dishes like 雞飯 are the home dishes of both the ladies. One of the lady has a hong kong husband too. Its a retreat and an enclave for the men who come here, working in a foreign country far away from home, so the jap customers shall feel at home here and at ease with the presence of mama.

They actually welcome hong kong business people who appreciate and have experience with their culture or brought there by japanese friends. However please think of all consequences and imagine if your media attention brings in unwanted people who have little idea of how this shop survives and operates. It will actually ruin their business in no time and everyone loses if their regular customers run away.

There is already a precedent. One such type of shop accidentally received media coverage despite insisting not to be coverd on anything other than Japanese press. It became flooded with unwanted customers and unfortunately as the boss can no longer cater for their closely associated customers anymore they decide to retire and sell their shop.

Your Japanese friend brought you here in good faith and I am almost 100% certain he knows the owner really well as do all customers. As a good gesture, perhaps you could consult him first and ask for his opinion too. To me this type of shop can be referred to close friends by word-of-mouth but should not be published. Sorry.

Fraz said...

Anonymous,Why you so conservative and selfish?

小頭 said...

Bogey - it is a well known golf term and I guess all those who play golf understand what it means. The shop might be named to attract golfers in general but your argument that "The shop name was deliberately so because it caters for Japanese golfing customers" does not sound very convincing, at least to me.

As for media coverage, the shop was mentioned twice in Eat & Travel Weekly (飲食男女) this year.

Therefore, don't worry too much about "the shop become flooded with unwanted customers", the damage has already been done, if there is any indeed.